If you’re tired of the untidy tie-dye sweatsuit, can’t stand the obligatory toned glutes required by leggings, but will not sacrifice that newly acquired everyday comfort, what’s the next must-have item in a work-from-home Covid world?
Well, the caftan, of course! Reason number one: It’s ultra-comfortable, has that essential boho vibe, and always instills on the wearer a slight aura of elegance.
Keep in mind it skyrocketed to fashion fame in the exotic seventies when it was lavishly embroidered à la “I just jetted back from Morocco, dahling”, or fashioned from kaleidoscopic, colourful fabric with splashes of spicy orange, tantalizing turquoise and intense hot pinks, coming down in droves on the runways of ultra-chic labels Léonard de Paris or Emilio Pucci, and Biba, where all the ultra-cool London girls shopped.
After the unbridled passion for prairie dresses and the upsurge in humungous puffy sleeves we’ve seen lately, it seems the age of the caftan is prime for a comeback.
Oh Yes, The Seventies!
“I’ve always loved a great caftan, but right now I’m definitely seeing more demand for these types of dresses in my shop,” says Elaine Léveillé, Owner of E.R.A Vintage Wear, a favourite destination for the most carefully curated, high-quality collectible vintage clothing in Montreal’s West End.
“I think these types of dresses are more popular than ever because women want beautiful clothing to wear at home. Gwyneth Paltrow made a splash on The Politician, streamed on Netflix, in one of the show’s first scenes where she is sitting poolside wearing a stunning emerald green caftan.” Elaine says she is also witnessing a resurgence and interest in all things seventies, “which brings you back to these iconic looks.”
Coincidentally, Mrs. America, another show currently being streamed, also takes place in the 70s but is all about pantsuits, Missy fashions and pussy bows. Well, let’s not forget that was the decade when women’s rights (polyester career coordinates) collided with the lingering hippie spirit (natural fabrics and handmade detailing).
Modest Dressing
“We’re moving away from the bodycon, naked dresses, that shot to Insta-fame thanks to Kim Kardashian, to a much more ample silhouette,” says designer Yves Jean Lacasse from Envers, a Quebec label celebrating its 25th anniversary in 2020. Known for the many Eastern influences in his collections, the caftan and the kimono have been staple shapes in Yves Jean’s wide repertoire of inspiring sources over the years.
He points to Billie Eilish as the biggest new influence in fashion and the large silhouettes she favours, “less revealing clothing is gaining momentum.” So, is it a return to modesty?
“I think we’re definitely seeing more modest clothing,” says Elaine. “The other day one of my clients, who is very religious, came in wanting a caftan. She was interested in this type of item because, while being loose, still gives off a great fashion vibe.”
Indeed, the idea of covering up has been in the—rarefied—air of high fashion for some time now. Just think of the Olsen twins’ The Row collections, which envelop the wearer in layer upon layer of luxury fabrics while appealing to the tastes of the superrich (and sometimes famous), with price tags hovering around $10,000 for a day dress. Even some pieces from the Spring/Summer 2020 Gucci collection are now surprisingly restrained. And, well, Billie Eilish chose Gucci for her Grammy presentation. So everything has come full circle.
Petticoat Junction
The most puzzling part of the caftan revival is that it is also strangely reminiscent of something no person over the age of 60 (“OK Boomer!”) has ever seen, or remotely being close to wearing. That being the totally drab, terror-inducing antithesis of glam or sexiness: the utilitarian housedress.
But, why now?
In an article published June 2020 in the Wall Street Journal, Fiorella Valdesolo actually tackles the touchy topic of housedresses as a fashion option, and the way “this seemingly anachronistic garment has evolved.” According to her, instead of adhering to a specific style, it simply suggests a certain housebound mood. And this is where we’re at! Home. Around which our entire lives now revolve, in stark contrast to the exterior lifestyle mode punctuated by the office-dinner-show trio of just a few months ago, pre-Covid, where everyone was showing off their awesome new fast-fashion finds.
The last time overlapping generations of women were mostly at home was in the seventies when caftans, housecoats and housedresses ruled. Think Elizabeth Taylor and her collections of shimmery long dresses. Nineteen seventy also marked the last season of the TV series Petticoat Junction, which takes place in a rural setting but the girls are all dolled up, wearing a combination of miniskirts, puffy blouses. And, of course, the occasional housedress.
Lavish and Luxe
Caftans are not purely restrained and functional garments. Yves Jean is always musing, when designing a new collection into which the caftan invariably finds its way: “Do I make it black, with decorative touches inspired by Chanel, or transparent and lavishly luxe, embroidered with crystal beading?”
According to him, “the couture type of caftan where craftsmanship is impeccable, the fabric is very refined and pricey is definitely a classic item in many high society women’s wardrobes.”
For Elaine, a caftan is always synonymous with Yves Saint-Laurent and his Marrakech era. She likes the fact that it’s like a regal, elegant armour. Something to keep in mind for those new Sunday Best dressing options. “Overdressing is still a power thing, and with a caftan you can be vulnerable at the same time because you are covered with this lavish, great piece of clothing, even though you might still be naked under all that fabric.”
For summer 2020, hundreds of different caftans are being sold online under many different labels, at every price point. H&M marketed over 25 different models this year, from pure matte silk, ruffled and translucent swimsuit cover-ups, to white eyelet embroidery with puffy sleeves strangely reminiscent of a nightgown.
And whether you end up calling it a caftan or a housedress, well that is entirely up to you!
