It was the hot, sultry, summer of 1946 when visionary French engineer Louis Réard (of course it had to be a man…) created what would redefine swimwear forever. Inspired by the tiny atoll of Bikini, in the Pacific Ocean, where tons of atomic bombs had recently been tested, he called his abbreviated two-piece invention ‘bikini.’ Can you say bombshell?
Despite wartime mandatory reduction in the amount of fabric used to produce women’s swimwear in the US, and leading manufacturers to produce two-pieces, the diminutive bikini born in France was too extreme. Réard was ahead of his time by about 15 to 20 years. Only truly avant-garde European women embraced it. Cue in Cannes and the Côte d’Azur that became the world’s hottest and most revealing fashion playgrounds in the world.
Since, the tidal wave brought on by the bikini explosion has evolved over the decades, morphing, revealing and hiding erogenous zones according to the societal tastes of the day.
Retracing the Revolution
The 1950s witnessed the introduction of the iconic high-waisted bikini with the matching torpedo bra (yes, decades before Jean-Paul Gaultier dressed up Madonna in satin and velvet bullet bras), reflecting the time’s penchant for exaggerated curves that would also be immortalized in some of the era’s industrial designs like car fins and headlights. Stars like Marilyn Monroe and Brigitte Bardot further catapulted the bikini into the realm of global fascination, immortalizing it on the silver screen and in the pages of glossy movie magazines.
A sharp cultural divide taking place across many nations in the 1960s sparked a movement marked by rebellion and radical change leading to civil unrest, technological advancement, scientific breakthroughs and bold artistic expression. Everything, everywhere, all at once. The bikini became a symbol of liberation and counterculture, as the skimpy two-piece shrank in size, boldly baring more skin, and sitting daringly at the hips with cups shrinking even further to expose more of the breasts’ roundness.
By the early 70s, the sexual revolution the caught on to swimwear with string bikinis paired with triangle tops. Brazil’s beachwear culture, with its saturated, joyful palettes and kaleidoscopic prints, found its way onto other vacation spots around the world, bringing with it the tiny tanga, a bikini bottom with minimal coverage at the back, leaving much of the buttocks exposed. Technical advancements in the textile industry permitted better four-way stretch for a snugger fit, with the widespread use of spandex (incidentally, the name is an anagram of ‘expands’).
In the 80s, the aerobics phenomenon took centre stage, and the athletic look gained ground in popular culture. Fitness lifestyle became a thing. As a result, fashion—including swimwear, of course—began to reflect this newfound fascination with physical activity and body consciousness. Swimsuit designs with high-cut legs and lower-cut necklines were favoured to elongate a fit silhouette. The focus on achieving a toned and sculpted body also ushered in much more revealing bikinis and a plethora of thong variants on beaches and swimming pools across North America, reflecting the decade’s emphasis on body positivity and showcasing one’s fitness efforts (“Feel the burn,” as Jane Fonda would tell millions fans on her workout tapes).
Entering the ‘90s and Y2K, the bikini became a canvas for artistic expression, with designers experimenting with innovative materials, textures, and embellishments. Metallic finishes, animal prints, and asymmetrical silhouettes graced the shores, encapsulating the exuberance of the era.
As we find ourselves in the twenty-first century, the bikini has transcended the simple act of rebelling to become a symbol of inclusivity, embracing diverse body types and celebrating individuality. Established fashion names and the seemingly endless parade of new brands (thanks Instagram!) have embraced the mindset of “it’s fashion, but it’s me,” responding with an array of designs, cuts, fabrics, prints and embellishments (or not!), literally providing thousands of innovative and more classic swimwear styles, from the more modest coverage to near nakedness expression of self.
What’s New in Bikinis for Summer 2023
Before you decide on setting up the proper thirst trap on social media, let’s take a look at the trending cuts and styles in bikinis for summer 2023, starting with what went down at Miami Swim Week, the trade show where everything remotely beachwear happens. Think of it like the couture. But for the beach. Or poolside.
With that in mind, take note of the three themes that will begin to resonate and continue to evolve throughout the year.
The annual swimwear extravaganza, which just wrapped at the end of June, showcased plenty of eye-catching swim and beachwear, from oversized ruffles, to dramatic high-rise thongs, to looks inspired by the year’s favourite trends: Barbiecore pinks “Renaissance” metallics (to coincide with Beyonce’s tour, of course), and even Y2K layering, with swim skirts and dresses taking centre stage. No, that’s not unusual. Just remember last year’s swim long opera gloves worn with a bikini. In fact, swimwear is now incorporating strong elements of city wear and evening wear into the ‘fits we wear to lounge prettily near any body of water.
The transparency trend, abundantly seen on red carpets in the last two years via ‘naked dresses’ has come down to the beach, too. Here, we’re seeing it in the form of glistening bikinis, in very minimal shapes with ruched bottoms and the classic triangle top. And the look is just stunning with a sparkling sheer crystal-embellished cover-up or beach dress. Definitely a look to try for more formal bikini-worthy event — if there’s even such a thing!
Though florals are nothing new, they appeared on the Miami catwalks bigger and more vibrant than ever: There are statement-making, fully-bloomed prints, as well as daintier patterns. These bouquet-covered suits are bound to brighten up any beach day. Even in a smog-filled Canadian summer.
With the fitness and sports trend still in high gear, expect to see that continue influencing swimwear, and particularly this summer’s 2023 bikinis. Fabrics are solid and veering on the technical, with many models featuring neoprene and thick colour-contrasting plastic zippers. It’s all about performance and feeling snatched. Along the same lines, but looking a bit more luxe, velvet bikinis like the ones from Canadian brand Hoaka Swimwear (also made from neoprene), are a beautiful alternative to the usual shiny ones.
So what will it be for you? The extremely minimal L.A. thongkini, the bronze bustier high-waisted two-piece, or the bikini with flounces and sleeves? Any way to want it, swimwear has a ton of options when it comes to coverage and adornments. And, that alone, will make it a beautiful summer!
