Let’s say it like it is. The resurgence of the perm is one of the most unexpected hair trends to emerge in the last few seasons. If anyone remembers the heyday of this textured hairstyle in the 80s, it’s even baffling. And with back to school upon us, it’s expected to gain even more traction both on social and in real life.
Once considered a relic of the past, perms for guys have made an incredible comeback, driven by cultural influences from around the globe, especially from the world of K-pop and social media. Fashion Beauty Runway spoke to Jason Lee, a Toronto hairstylist creator of the Mela & Kera hair care brand and one of the leading references in men’s perms in Canada, to get the lowdown on the whys and hows of this new textured hairstyle for guys.
The Origins of the Men’s Perm Revival
“The perm, with its soft tendrils creating more hair volume, first appeared in the 1970s and 1980s,” says Jason. It was a time when big hair was all the rage, and perms were the obvious way to go if you hadn’t been blessed with a natural cascade of curls. The hairstyle was popular for both men and women. However, as the 1990s ushered in the era of sleek, straight hair — and ‘basic’ fashion — big, curly hair gradually fell out of favour and became synonymous with a bygone era of dubious taste. Like every huge trend that falls by the wayside, after it peaks.
Fast forward to the 2020s, and perms for men have made an unexpected return. The revival can be traced back to the influence of K-pop culture, where some idolized male singers and performers are known for their subtle curls. K-pop stars, with their trendsetting looks, have a massive global following, and their beauty and hair looks are emulated by millions of adoring stans, worldwide.
The soft, wavy perm has become a staple of the K-pop look, blending a playful vibe with a touch of sophistication, particularly because the sides of the hair are extremely short, to make it more elegant and less pouffy. “Also, because Asian hair is super straight, Korean and Japanese people have been getting perms for a long time. If the hair is short on the sides and longer on the top, like what we’re seeing now, a subtle perm can add a touch of movement,” says Jason.
On the other end of the spectrum of this new hair look for guys, influencer Nic Kaufmann, who has over 19 million followers on TikTok, also got the ball rolling over four years ago when he posted an ‘I might have got a perm’ video. Since then, Nic’s wavy, permed hair has become a signature look, inspiring many of his followers to try out the style for themselves. Nic’s approachable and relatable content has made the perm seem accessible and appealing to a wide audience, particularly among Gen Z.
Why Young Men Are Choosing Perms Right Now
The current men’s perm is not just about following trends; it’s also expressing loud and clear who you are and what you like. “It’s interesting to see that 15-year-old guys care more about how they look, now. They want to show their self-awareness and their sexuality like never before,” explains Jason. “In our salon that mainly caters to an affluent female clientele, we see women bringing in their teenage sons to get a perm. They want a high-end customized version of this look.”
This is just the beginning of this new hairstyle for men taking off. We’re going to start seeing more and more guys in their twenties with perms, before it makes even more inroads in the general population. “Even hockey athletes are coming in and they want a bit of curl on the top with the very short sides for a perfectly coiffed look. The only thing is, guys need to be reminded to let their hair grow out a little bit if they want to try out a perm.”
To get the new coveted men’s haircut, just make sure your hair is at least four to five inches long, for hairstylists to have enough to work with. “This is a typical cold wave perm, says Jason. The same formula — and smell! — as in the 80s done with large rollers, because you want bigger curls that will give you that element of softness.”
Best Maintenance Tips for Perms
Even better, perms are relatively low maintenance compared to, say, some perfectly executed fades that grow out and lose their ‘edge’ sometimes just one week after a barber’s expert blade booking. And they don’t require meticulous daily styling, either. Basically, it’s just a wash-and-wear type of haircut. Once the curls are created, this hairstyle requires minimal effort, making it an ideal choice for busy students and professionals alike.
With the right hair care products, such as curl-enhancing creams and hair masks, maintaining a permed hairstyle is super easy. “So even though you can’t bleach, colour or add highlights when you get a perm done, the right products will give your hair that healthy softness guys want with this type of hairstyle. So, yes, hair care products and the right maintenance routine will help you achieve the look you want.”
Always remember you’re not supposed to wash your hair right after you get a perm done. And for regular maintenance, Jason recommends using a non-stripping shampoo like the Mela & Kera Balayage Shampoo conditioner which seal the cuticle for stronger, more lustrous hair. Gently blow-dry hair with the Blow-Out Creme, also from Mela & Kera. For added oomph to your waves, you can also include Balayage Exceptionnel Wave Foundation, a weightless spray that boosts texture to enhance subtle waves, while minimizing the effects of heat styling for textured looks that are lustrous, vibrant and soft to the touch.
So, here you have all the info you need to get those suave curls. Ready to try the men’s perm for yourself? Go for it! It’s a fun, playful hairstyle that will help you make your mark for back to school.
